Recipe: Getting cozy with Congee
Rice Porridge Three Ways (aka Xi Fan, or Congee, or Jook) In our house, xi fan was the equivalent of chicken noodle or matzo ball soup—the Chinese grandma’s version of Jewish penicillin. We’d slurp this cozy, filling rice porridge, also known as jook or congee, when sick in bed, upset, or otherwise needing a big bowl of comfort. We’ve included three versions, each one perfect for huddling over a bowl on your own or placing a big pot on the table with an array of toppings for friends and family. Each serves four or more, with Toppings.
Simple Rice Porridge V, VV, GF, DF This xi fan is the kind we grew up eating—ideal for cooking on a budget and cold winter nights. It’s great for kids, with a texture perfect for the youngest of eaters and the fun of designing your own bowl. We also appreciate a meal that can be made with a minimum of effort—combine the rice and water and just simmer away while you gather your toppings of choice.
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1 cup (185 g) white rice
10 cups (2.4 kg) water (or broth or stock, if desired)
Kosher salt
Combine the rice and water in a large pot over medium-high heat. No need to wash the rice; the additional starch will help thicken the porridge. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat slightly and simmer for 60 to 90 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and adjust the consistency as desired. We like a soupy consistency, so add a bit more liquid if it thickens too much.
Remove from the heat, season with salt, and ladle into bowls. Top with your desired toppings and serve immediately. Leftover porridge can be cooled and refrigerated for 2 to 4 days. To reheat, stir in additional liquid until it reaches your desired consistency and heat on the stovetop or in the microwave.
Thanksgiving Rice Porridge GF, DF
This rich, meaty version of our jook is named for holidays spent in upstate New York at our Aunt Angela and Uncle Wilfried’s house. Every year, we’d have a quintessential American Thanksgiving meal—a beautiful turkey, side dishes, all the fixings—and then the turkey carcass would get tossed into a big pot with rice and water to make porridge for breakfast (and lunch and possibly dinner) the next day. Whenever I smell this dish, it brings me back to that holiday feeling of abundance and family. You don’t need a big once-a-year turkey either—roast chicken or rib dinner leftovers are great alternatives.
Note: It can be a bit of a pain fishing out all the bones, gristle, and other nonedible bits. Possible solutions include wrapping the bones in a neat little package of tied-up cheesecloth, or going Chinese-style and figuring it out as you eat. Regardless, the mouthwatering fragrance of your kitchen will be more than worth it. You can do this with raw meat, like a whole chicken leg, but leftovers with all their glorious browned bits will add much more flavor.
1 cup (185 g) white rice
10 cups (2.4 kg) water or your choice of meat broth or stock
Kosher salt
Leftover bones and meat from a roast turkey (or other meat of choice)
Follow the instructions for Simple Rice Porridge above, adding the bones at the start of cooking. After simmering for at least 90 minutes, let cool slightly. Using tongs, remove the bones and gristle and return any meat back to the pot. Season with salt and serve immediately with toppings of your choice. To reheat, stir in additional liquid until it reaches your desired consistency and heat on the stovetop or in the microwave.